It Is Nice To Export More Spice

Deep in the forests of Edyarkunnu in the Wayanad district of the Indian state of Kerala lies the first village in the country to be certified ‘fully organic’ for the growing of spices.

The people of Kattikullam used to barter pepper for liquor. Now they’re selling their products for increasing amounts of cash as demand for organic spices grows.

Wayanad district hosted the first organic spices fair last year – a trade show where over 100 farmers from the region met traders and promoters. Organic spices have become serious business for more than 1000 families in the East Indian state of Orissa and rural South, thanks to the World Bank.

Three years ago, the it set up a US$250,000 project with the Geneva-based International Trade Centre (ITC) to promote cultivation and standards.

Now, backyards in Kerala grow organic black and white pepper, cloves, nutmeg and vanilla for export. In the forests of Nilgiris, tribal people cultivate rosemary and thyme to sell abroad. Farmers have been trained in organic techniques such as controlling vermin and making compost without chemicals. They’re also taught how to store and harvest spices properly.

‘Exports have reduced poverty and given confidence to families of poor farmers who not so long ago lived below the poverty line,’ an ITC spokesperson says.

Four other grass-roots agencies have organised self-help groups of up to 200 farmers to teach and share organic methods. Their breed is growing.

It doesn’t really matter if you are sceptical about the benefits of organic food. The point is lots of consumers believe organic is better. And they’re prepared to pay for ‘green’ food. ‘Awareness of the dangers of pesticides that cause problems vary from asthma, depression, conjunctivitis to cancer is increasingly leading people towards organics,’ says Dr A T Dudani, a microbiologist who wrote the book Alternatives to Pesticides in Tropical Countries.

Hotels and restaurants help create demand by using and creating new recipes for visitors that use Indian organic spices

It’s a big market. Consumers want more and more quality products that promote health, and help them live longer. Definitive statistics are difficult to find. But some estimates suggest the world market for organic food, drink and ingredients has been growing at around 30 per cent a year recently. Thirteen million households in the US are said to be regularly buying not just organic products to eat, but organic clothing and body-care products too. India exports around 50 tons a year of organic spices—and that figure is growing. P T John, who’s joint-director of the Indian Spices Board says organic farming is high on the government’s agenda as the potential for foreign sales is immense. And India’s growing urban middle-classes are also a target. He says there is a niche market in major cities for premium-priced organic spices that has yet to be exploited. But organic consumers are demanding. They need certification and good qualitycontrol to be confident they’re getting the best. What are Indian producers doing to give those assurances? ‘We have introduced a code of practice for organic cultivation of ginger, turmeric, cardamoms, chillies, pepper and vanilla.’ Mr John says. ‘Farmers have to ensure minimum requirements for organic agriculture, are now being trained for certification with regard to bio-diversity, seeds and planting materials, conversion period, cropping pattern, fertilisation policy, soil and water conservation, labelling, food processing and handling, packaging.’ Kerala is often called ‘God’s own country’. Dotted around the state, traditional families are spreading the organic message through another route—tourism. For example, the Pimenta, a family home with accommodation for visitors, is nestled in the 2.5 hectare grounds of Haritha organic farm in the village of Kadalikad. ‘Our international guests love the local flavour of the traditional architecture and cuisine,’ says the owner, Kurien Matthew. ‘There is a market today for pesticide-free seasonings, not in existence just five years ago. Companies are further creating sustainable agriculture programmes that allow indigenous farmers to thrive as well.’ ‘Home-cooked Kerala specialties with the flavour and aroma of fresh farm grown spices and coconut and coffee—all from our organic garden—help to promote the concept of eco-friendly tourism. ‘As consumers get more adventurous in their eating habits, organic herbs and spices are in now in demand,’ Mr Matthew says. It’s not just hotels and restaurants that are creating demand for organic products. Health spas are too. A healthy lifestyle may involve nurturing the spiritual and physical side of life as well. International interest in Ayurveda—the ancient Indian philosophy—is creating market opportunities. India’s biggest operator of health farms, Kairali Ayurvedic, recently launched its own brand of herbal tea. It has 20 outlets in India and abroad, in Dubai, Russia, Japan and New Zealand. The brightly coloured beverage contains no caffeine, and is high in antioxidants. It has ‘soft, soothing’ flavours of natural jasmine and other spices believed to balance equilibrium of elements in the body. ‘Keeping the body warm internally following an Ayurvedic massage is essential,’ says Kairali’s director Gita Ramesh. *NEELAM MATHEWS IS ASIA FOOD JOURNAL’S NEW CORRESPONDENT IN INDIA